Alexandria (pronounced al-ig-ZAN-dree-uh ; Arabic: الإسكندرية / اسكندرية al-Iskandariyya / Eskendereyya ) is Egypt's second largest city (5.2 million people in 2018), its largest seaport, and the country's window onto the Mediterranean Sea. The city is a faded shadow of its former glorious cosmopolitan self, but still worth a visit for its many cultural attractions – particularly the new Library of Alexandria – and still-palpable glimpses of its past.
Photos: Wikimedia Commons contributors.
Few cities of the world have a history as rich as that of Alexandria; few cities have witnessed so many historic events and legends. Founded by Alexander the Great (Iskander al-Akbar) in 331 BCE, Alexandria became the capital of Greco-Roman Egypt; its status as a beacon of culture is symbolized by Pharos, the legendary lighthouse. There had long been a fishing village here, called Rhakotis, but Alexander had greater plans for it. Its strategic value was obvious: it had a great natural harbour, a backing lagoon to prevent land attack, a fertile hinterland, and potential control of trade routes up the Nile and overland to the Red Sea and Arabia.
Alexandria is a long, long city but there's good transport along the Corniche. It also extends several km inland past the lagoons, but you've no reason to go that way. Alexandria's yellow and black taxis are a good way to travel in the city, and a cheap one as well. Be careful though: taxis will uniformly refuse to use meters (the rates haven't been adjusted in years) and drivers love to take advantage of non-Alexandrians (both foreign and Egyptian), so it's best to agree on the fare before you get in. If you are on a day trip to Alexandria, hire a taxi outside the railway station for the day. To get into a taxi, wave at the driver and yell the name of your destination.
1 Citadel of Qaitbay, Ras el-Tin (yellow tram or microbus to Anfushi), ☏ +20 3-4809144. Daily 9AM-8PM. Set on the tip of the Anfushi/Pharos promontory, looking back over the eastern harbour and downtown Corniche. It was built by Mameluke Sultan Abdul-Nasser Qa'it Bay in 1477 CE, by re-cycling the stone of the ruined lighthouse. It tried (with limited success) to defend the city against invaders, from crusaders to Napoleon, and was in military use as late as 1882, when the British bombarded it. There are two entrances and admissions. West, facing your approach along the Harbour mall, is the ground-floor Maritime Museum, which is of little interest.
Sunbathe at the Maa'moura Beach or Montazah Beach. During summer the beaches are packed with Egyptian tourists, parasols and plastic chairs and it will cost to get in. At this time the sand and water may have some throwaway plastic floating around. 1 Double decker bus ride along the Corniche, Al-Anfushi Bus Station (at the corner of Al Geish Road and Al Captain Abd Al Qader Koura Street). The Corniche stretches from the Citadel in the west about 30 km along the seaside to the east. Its core is a 15 km promenade along the bay dotted with restaurants, markets and historic sights.
Seafood restaurants line the waterfront. Alexandrian ice cream is similar to the typical soft-serve ice cream, but it is described as being a little bit 'stretchy'. It is available in numerous flavors, and according to the locals, this type of ice cream is only made in Alexandria and Greece. Try it at Bahary near Qait Bey, where popular shops include Makram, El-Sheikh Wafik, Azza and El Se'eedy. Corn on the cob (dorra mashwey) is sold by street vendors along the Corniche. Koshary, the Egyptian national dish, is a mixture of noodles, rice, lentil and more noodles topped with a tomato sauce.
Traditional coffee shops or ahwa serve coffee, tea and shisha water pipes. Play a little backgammon or dominoes and watch the world pass by. They remain a male bastion. Brazilian Coffee Stores are a chain with several city outlets. Western chains such as Starbucks or Costa have only a handful of outlets. The chain's best known branch is the one in Saad Zaghloul Street: 1 Brazilian Coffee Stores, 44 Saad Zaghloul St., Raml Station (next to Délices Patisserie/La Veranda). Daily 7AM-11PM. 2 Clay Cafe, 156 Omar Lotfy St (near Small Sporting Tram station). Daily 11AM-midnight. Coffee and stuff are only just okay for the price, you come for the laidback atmosphere and the wi-fi.
Although crime is rarely violent, beware of pickpockets and don't flash your valuables or wear a bum bag or fanny pack. Street kids, taxi drivers, and others may harass tourists. They will usually desist after a stern "La!" or two. Or you can say "la shukran!" (no thanks) or "emshi" (go!). Alexandria is a conservative city, so women should cover their shoulders, midriffs, cleavage and legs. Even still, women can expect to be heckled or harassed in the street, especially if walking alone. The best response is to ignore the offender and pretend you don't hear anything.
Guide content from Wikivoyage contributors (CC BY-SA) — abridged; the full article has much more.
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In Jul, Alexandria typically sees ~26°C daytime highs and 12 rainy days.
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