Ankara is the capital of Turkey, central within the country on the plateau of Central Anatolia. It's a sprawling modern place around an ancient citadel, and in 2022 had a population of almost 5.2 million (second in size to Istanbul), with a further 600,000 living in the wider metropolis.
Photos: Wikimedia Commons contributors.
Until 1923, Ankara was a provincial town of less than 30,000. Then Atatürk made it the capital of the new Republic of Turkey, a deliberate shift from the Ottoman capital of Istanbul with its literally Byzantine political life. The plateau was swiftly covered by drab concrete buildings and snarled highways, leavened by parks and woodlands, and occasional striking architecture. Although it never wrested the cultural crown from Istanbul, Ankara has a rich heritage in its museums, galleries and mosques, and tourists who just transit on the way to Cappadocia are missing an important chapter in the story of Turkey and Asia Minor.
The city has a dense bus network, a two-line Metro, and an east-west suburban railway called Başkentray. There is no provision by any mode of public transport for travellers with restricted mobility. EGO (or toplu taşıma) is the municipality public transportation company. All buses are operated by EGO. Most of them are white or blue, while the newer ones are red. Central bus stops often have displays of real-time services. Bus fares cannot be paid in cash, but can be paid by contactless card payment.
Castle and its neighbor Hamamönü is home to Ottoman architecture. 1 Ankara Castle (1.3 km east of : Ulus). Daily 10:00-20:00. This volcanic outcrop has probably been fortified since the dawn of mankind, but the earliest traces are from the Phrygians of 8th century BC. The castle was reinforced by the Galatians then the Romans. You stroll up through cobbled streets to the double walls and can climb one of the towers, with views of the sprawling city and distant mountains. Free. (updated Apr 2023) North Tower is another bastion of the citadel, 200 m north of the castle. You're aiming for the fluttering Turkish flag. Sultan Alaeddin Mosque, Alitaş Sk (100 m west of castle).
1 Ankara Opera & Ballet (Opera Sahnesi), Atatürk Blv 20, ☏ +90 312 324 6801. This opened in 1948 and looks it, the grandeur is kinda faded. It hosts theatre as well as opera and ballet. (updated Apr 2023) 2 Presidential Symphony Orchestra. (updated Feb 2025) 3 Atatürk Culture Center. (updated Feb 2025) 4 Feza Gürsey Science Center. (updated Feb 2025) 5 Goksu Park, off 1 TBMM Cd, Etimesgut (Bus 501, 502). Daily 06:00-23:00. Ranged around Susuz Lake, with an island restaurant, cafes and funfair. (updated Apr 2023) 6 Youth Park. (updated Feb 2025) 7 Seğmenler Park. (updated Feb 2025) 8 Dikmen Valley.
Ankara has a variety of local/traditional and international food restaurants such as Asian, French, Italian, Persian and Somalian cuisine throughout the city. Kızılay has a pedestrianised block full of little cafes and takeaways. It's east of Atatürk Blv and north of Ziya Gökalp Cd. Çiğ köfte and regular köfte carts/shops could be found all over the city for a quick snack. Ward Restaurant and café مطعم ورد, Bayındır-1 Sk (in Kızılay cafe block), ☏ +90 505 033 0022. Daily 08:00-00:00. This is the place to come for Iraqi food. (updated Apr 2023) Zelal Cafe, Yüksel Cd 24 (50 m north of Komagene), ☏ +90 312 431 3232. Inexpensive trad food.
Ankara is generally safe, even for single females at night, since as the capital it's well-policed. (The cops are looking for traffic offences, dissident trouble-makers and squaddies in town without a liberty pass.) Take usual care of valuables. The main hazard is traffic - vehicles are driven at silly speeds with scant regard to traffic lights and pedestrians. The side walks are often in poor condition: anyone with restricted mobility will be forced onto the roadway, and on ill-lit streets at night you risk falling into uncovered drains. For emergencies call the emergency number 112 or approach any officer or go to the nearest station.
Guide content from Wikivoyage contributors (CC BY-SA) — abridged; the full article has much more.
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In Jul, Ankara typically sees ~34°C daytime highs and 0 rainy days.
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