Apia is the capital of Samoa. It is on the northern coast of the island of Upolu and has a population of 42,000 (2021). As with most Pacific Island capitals, Apia is a little shabby and run down. Reasonably small in size and with few obvious attractions, Apia is very useful as a stop-off point for first-time visitors to get their bearings, plan travel around the island of Upolu, organise accommodation on the beach, and recover from jet lag. Most of Samoa's highlights are outside the town, although many are within a very short drive.
Photos: Wikimedia Commons contributors.
Apia was founded in the 1850s, and has been the capital of Samoa since 1959. The harbour was the site of an infamous naval standoff in 1889 when seven ships from Germany, the US, and Britain refused to leave the harbour as a typhoon was approaching, for fear of losing face. All the ships were sunk, except for one British cruiser. Nearly 200 American and German lives were lost. Eventually, New Zealand occupied the area after World War I. During the struggle for independence organised by the Mau movement, a peaceful gathering in the town resulted in the killing of the paramount chief Tupua Tamasese Lealofi III and ten others by New Zealand police on 28 December 1929.
Much of Apia is within walking distance, although this could be an uncomfortable experience on a hot and humid Samoan Day. Another thing to consider is the number of aggressive stray dogs towards dusk and in the evening. A walk from the suburbs into the centre is best avoided at night for this reason. Taxis are cheap, safe and easy to hail down but single women are advised to sit in the back seat, particularly if wearing a short skirt. Ridesharing services including Uber and Lyft have become common means of transport in Apia too. Buses fan out to the whole of Upolu from Apia. If you are staying at a hotel outside the centre of the town it may be possible to get there by bus.
1 Robert Louis Stevenson Museum, Cross Island Rd, Valima (about 5 km south of town in the village of Vailima), ☏ +685 20798. M-F 09:00-16:00, Sa 09:00-12:00. This house was built by RLS, the author most known for Treasure Island and Dr Jekyll & Mr Hyde, during the final years of his life, which he spent in Apia. It was said to be the only place that he or his wife ever truly called home. Although none of his most famous works were written here, he did write some short stories here, including "The Bottle Imp", which he wrote specifically for the Samoans and Pacific Islanders.
A walk along the sea wall is enjoyable. But only on a milder day (i.e. 25 °C (77 °F)). Many locals walk along the sea wall in the early mornings and late afternoon. 1 Palolo Deep Marine Reserve, Vaiala Beach, Apia. The only beach in Apia to the east of the harbour. Not really much a beach, though, it's mostly coral gravel. It's an official underwater park. The snorkelling initially seems pretty poor but if you venture further out (probably a good quarter mile swim) it gets a bit more interesting with the occasional turtle and black tip reef shark. Ask at the entrance where to swim, there's a marker post that helps.
There are numerous restaurants that cater for locals on a budget and will sell the sort of food that is eaten in the average household. Beer and soft drinks are available at most places. The menu is likely to include chop suey, chicken curry and mutton flaps. Umu or earth oven cooked local food include roast pig, and the great delicacy, palusami. Palusami is made of an onion and coconut cream filling with a meat (usually corned beef, chicken or fish), all wrapped in new taro leaves and baked. This is a "must try" and goes well with taro. Restaurants tend to close early by Western standards. With a few exceptions, the restaurants in the big hotels are the only ones open on Sunday.
Alcohol can be bought at almost all restaurants. Soft drinks and bottled water are generally available and safe. While the purity of the tap water is questionable, all factory-bought ice is safe. It is only later handling that can contaminate it. Kava at the market. (see Samoa) There is a mall (meaning a pedestrian street) in the centre of town with coffee shops, that are great place to sit and watch people passing by. 1 Le Well, Fugalei St. Liquor store, sells a good range of spirits and wines that are much cheaper than buying them by the glass from your hotel.
Samoa is generally very safe. Locals who strike up a conversation are unlikely to have sinister motives, however you will often be asked for money. Free roaming dogs can be a safety problem in the capital Apia. The Government of Samoa (GoS) passed the Canine Control Act in 2013 as an initial step toward addressing dog management. Most dogs ignore you and don't see you as a threat if you ignore them. Nearly all of Samoa's nightlife is in Apia, and so, like anywhere in the world around closing time, it can get a bit rowdy. Samoans are, on the whole, extremely friendly and despite their size, remarkably relaxed and gentle people. This does not mean you should let your guard down.
Guide content from Wikivoyage contributors (CC BY-SA) — abridged; the full article has much more.
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In Aug, Apia typically sees ~28°C daytime highs and 23 rainy days.
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