Baghdad (Arabic: بـغداد Baġdād) is the capital and largest city of Iraq, with an estimated population of 6-7 million. Once one of the greatest centres of learning and culture in the world, Baghdad was the capital of the Abbasid Caliphate during the Islamic Golden Age. It was once a favoured destination on the 'hippie trail' and is packed full of sights.
Photos: Wikimedia Commons contributors.
Founded in 762 CE by caliph al-Mansur as the Round City, Baghdad became the seat of the Abbasid Caliphate and grew into one of the largest scientific centres in the Islamic world during the Golden Age of Islam. Five centuries of peace came to an end in 1258 when the city was destroyed by the Mongols who advanced westwards. After a period of Ottoman rule, Baghdad became the capital of Iraq under a British protectorate and as an independent state. Since then, Baghdad has been subject to war, terrorist attacks and attempts at reconstruction.
While the almost daily bombings and shootings have subsided, there is always a risk of getting caught in violence when travelling around the city. Staying vigilant is essential. Many high-end hotels provide their own transport, some even with armoured cars. Baghdad is served by an extensive but chaotic bus network; maps and route information for the network are not available in English. Taxis are also plentiful and quite cheap to use. Walking is possible in parts of the city, especially in and around the old city. Cycling is not uncommon among locals, but there is next to no infrastructure to support it.
A combination of heavy redevelopment during the second half of the 20th century, two decades of warfare and neglect has not been kind to Baghdad's architectural and cultural heritage. Generally, the eastern side contains the older districts while the western side is newer. The historic old quarter contains a myriad of alleys and small streets with buildings dating back to the Ottoman era or even older. Many of them are unfortunately in various stages of disrepair. The old quarter is also home to the heart and soul of Iraqi literacy and intellectual community, Mutanabbi Street.
Baghdad's cultural life is more vibrant than most visitors expect. Beyond the historical sites, the city offers riverside promenades, traditional markets worth exploring on foot, and day trips to some of Mesopotamia's most important archaeological sites. 1 Iraqi National Theatre (المسرح الوطني العراقي). (updated Dec 2021) 2 Baghdad Island Park (جزيرة بغداد السياحية) (12 km north of central Baghdad). Large outdoor amusement park with swimming pools, restaurants, cafés and an observation tower. (updated Jul 2022) 3 Abu Nawas Street (شارع أبو نواس) (Along the east bank of the Tigris in central Baghdad). Baghdad's famous riverside promenade, named after the 8th-century poet.
Restaurants and cafés have been notorious targets for suicide bombers in the past, making eating out a quite dangerous activity. 1 Saj Alreef Restaurant (صاج الريف - الكرادة), Al Wathiq Square، 62 St, ☏ +964 771 222 2860. Older but popular Baghdad restaurant featuring local as well as Western and Chinese cuisine. Comfortable interior. (updated May 2022) 2 Barley Restaurant, 42nd St, ☏ +964 783 051 4375. Daily 7AM-3:30AM. This eatery has a kind of macabre distinction of naming their large shawarma things after landmines. (updated May 2022) 3 Samad Restaurant, Rowad St, couple blocks north of Mansour St on right, ☏ +964 773 005 5333. Daily Noon-1AM. Lots of kebabs and other meat here.
While Baghdad is undergoing something of a liberalization regarding both night life and alcohol, it is still not widely available and large parts of society frowns upon it. While some bars exists, particularly along Abu Nawas Street, a safe bet is always the bars of the top tier hotels. Many international organisations have their own bars as well, and some are open to outsiders. Tea houses and cafés are however ubiquitous, and often open late into the night. 1 Shahbandar Café, Mutanabbi St. The oldest operating tea house in Baghdad, established in 1907. A hub to discuss matters of the day over a cup of tea. (updated Sep 2021)
Travel to Baghdad is not recommended because of security concerns. Westerners are particular targets of kidnapping and assassination by militant and extremist groups. Baghdad airport is secure, so transiting there if necessary is safe. See the warning on the Iraq article. The easiest way to stay safe in Baghdad is not to go there in the first place, except for official reasons. Most expats and business travellers to Iraq hire a security detail, which constantly monitors the security situation within Iraq and around Baghdad. Travel outside the International Zone is extremely dangerous. Roadside and car bombs are detonated every day in Baghdad. Many Iraqis are armed.
Guide content from Wikivoyage contributors (CC BY-SA) — abridged; the full article has much more.
In Jul, Baghdad typically sees ~46°C daytime highs and 0 rainy days.
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