Bordeaux is a city in the Gironde region of southwest France, standing on the River Garonne. It's the country's fifth largest city, with a population of 259,809 in 2020, and another million living in its associated towns. Bordeaux is famous for its wines and deserves to be equally famous for its magnificent neo-classical waterfront and old town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Photos: Wikimedia Commons contributors.
Bordeaux and the whole province of Aquitaine came under English rule for 300 years from 1154, when Eleanor of Aquitaine married the future King Henry II. The English rulers enjoyed drinking the wines of Bordeaux, but they enjoyed the profits even more – trade with Bordeaux was their largest source of income. Most wine came from the Graves region just upriver from the city, and this was a clear, deep rosé called clairet, still produced today. The English came to call any Bordeaux red wine “claret”. In 1453 France took control of Aquitaine and cut off the supply to England, who ceased to drink wine for the next 500 years, turning to beer and gin.
Bordeaux's centrepiece is the elegant riverfront and former port, where fine 18th-century buildings stretch for 3 km (2 mi) along the west bank of the Garonne, from Quinconces in the north to St Croix in the south. The old central districts of St Pierre and St Michel extend inland for about 1 km. Most city sights are in this area. The railway station is south, at the foot of Cours de la Marne. To the north, Quai des Chartrons has been redeveloped as the “City of Wine”, and has the wine museum. The main university campus is in the suburb of Talence, 10 km southwest.
1 Place des Quinconces is the broad leafy square at the focus of the west riverbank. The ornate Girondins Memorial commemorates those guillotined here after that faction lost the power struggle with the Montagnards in 1793, and the Revolution descended into a "Reign of Terror". The square is nowadays a transport hub - just about every city bus and tram route passes through it. Port of the Moon is the elegant waterfront crescent centred on Place des Quinconces that earned Bordeaux its UNESCO citation.
National Opera is on Place de la Comédie, 100 m south of Place des Quinconces. As well as opera it hosts ballet and musicals. Jeux Barjo, 12 Rue Saint-James (100 m north of Grosse Cloche), ☏ +33 5 5651 0021. Tu-Sa 14:00-00:00, Su 14:00-22:00. Bar specialising in board games ancient and modern: you pay for either one long or three short games. Staff assist if you want to try a game you're not familiar with. They also stage tournaments. (updated Jul 2023) Bewildered by the choice in your local supermarket? Prepare to be overwhelmed by what Bordeaux has to offer… but, if you're not sure of your taste, do make use of that supermarket to do your homework beforehand.
1 La Jeune Garde, 19 Rue des Douves, ☏ +33 9 8755 3151. Daily 11:00-14:30, 18:00-00:00. Pleasant food in a friendly rustic cafe. (updated Jul 2023) Chat Noir Cha Vert, 47 Rue des Faures (north side of Basilique Saint-Michel), ☏ +33 5 5795 9332. Pleasant place for light bites and views of the basilica. (updated Jul 2023) Beirut Kitchen, 8 Quai de la Grave (east side of Basilique Saint-Michel), ☏ +33 7 8846 9367. W-F 12:00-14:00, 19:00-22:00, Sa Su 12:00-22:00. Good mezze and other Levantine fare. (updated Jul 2023) Chez Ta Mère, 12 Rue Camille Sauvageau (50 m south of Basilique Saint-Michel), ☏ +33 5 5692 5512. Tu-Sa 18:30-02:00. As the name suggests, they serve rustic home-style cuisine.
Place de la Victoire is the main place for pubs and bars, while night-clubs are on the Quais near the railway station. Dick Turpin's, 72 Rue du Loup (100 m east of cathedral), ☏ +33 5 5648 0752. Tu-Sa 17:00-02:00, F Sa 18:00-01:00. English style pub with good drink and music, relaxed friendly vibe. (updated Jul 2023) El Chuchumbe, 6 Rue Causserouge (off Rue Leyteire), ☏ +33 5 5631 2588. W-Sa 18:00-02:00. Latin bar serving inexpensive mojitos, and towards midnight it becomes a salsa dance floor. (updated Jul 2023) The Frog and Rosbif, 23 Rue Ausone (100 m south of Porte Cailhau). Su-Th 17:00-01:00, F Sa 17:00-02:00.
Usual advice about care of valuables, traffic, and avoiding low-life. The city is not immune to pickpocketing and drink-spiking.
Guide content from Wikivoyage contributors (CC BY-SA) — abridged; the full article has much more.
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In Jul, Bordeaux typically sees ~28°C daytime highs and 10 rainy days.
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