Erzurum is one of the largest cities in Eastern Anatolia, with a population of about 363,000 in 2023, half that of Erzurum Province. It's at high altitude and has a ski resort.
Armies have to come this way between Anatolia and the Caucasus, so a series of conquerors have passed through. Those who stayed long enough to influence its architecture included the Seljuks, who first captured it in 1071 AD. They also trashed the neighbouring city of Artze, whose inhabitants fled here and called it the Roman Artze, hence Artze Rum or Erzurum. It was captured by the Ottomans in 1514 and became their military base in the east, although three times occupied by Russia as the late Ottoman empire crumbled.
Most sights are in walking distance. Buses and dolmuşes ply the main streets.
1 Erzurum Castle, ☏ +90 442 213 7357. Daily 08:00-19:00. Atop the hill at the heart of the city, this was established by the Byzantines in 422 AD but what you see now is mostly Seljuk, 12th century. It includes a museum and a mosque: you can climb the 19th century Tepsi minaret / watchtower for views. The outer castle walls have disappeared. Adult 150 TL. (updated Sep 2025) 2 Twin Minaret Madrasa (Çifte Minareli Medrese), Cumhuriyet Cd 3. Tu-F & Su 09:00-18:00. Built as a madrasa - a theological school - circa 1260, it takes its name from the two fluted minarets that crown the monumental façade. It's now a museum and city symbol. Free.
Hamams - traditional Turkish Baths - are in a dozen central spots. Football: Erzurumspor FK were promoted in 2026 and now play soccer in Süper Lig, the top tier. Their Kazım Karabekir Stadium (capacity 21,300) is 2 km west of the city on the main road to Erzincan. 1 Palandöken Ski Center base station is 6 km south of city centre, linked by bus. Park here and take the cable car up to the ski area. Palandöken summit (3271 m) in summer can be reached by hiking up the dirt road from the centre. Canoeing: sorry, you've misunderstood, kayak in Turkish means skiing.
Local specialties: the climate is too high and cold for soft fruit & veg, so folk gorge upon meat at every opportunity: Cağ kebap is lamb on a horizontal spit, instead of the traditional vertical döner kebab. Kadayıf dolması is the local version of kadayıf sweet fibre pastry. Hacı Baba is at İsmetpaşa Cd 21, open daily 10:00-22:00. Gelgör serves cağ kebap at Orhan Şerifsoy Cd, the foot of the avenue from the railway station, daily 08:00-00:00. Güzelyurt Restaurant is at Cumhuriyet Cd 42 opposite Yakutiye Madrasa, open M-Sa 12:00-00:00. Muammer Usta is a dessert cafe, with one outlet at Cumhuriyet Cd 1 near the madrasa and another by the railway station. Hımmburger is a fast food place on Bah…
Cafes may serve alcohol. Try along Mumcu Cd, north off Cumhuriyet Cd.
Guide content from Wikivoyage contributors (CC BY-SA) — abridged; the full article has much more.
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In Aug, Erzurum typically sees ~31°C daytime highs and 0 rainy days.
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