Ishigaki (石垣) is the second-largest and the most populated island of the Yaeyama Islands of Okinawa, Japan. The whole island belongs to the City of Ishigaki, which also includes the deserted Senkaku islands.
Photos: Wikimedia Commons contributors.
Ishigaki has 45,000 of Yaeyama's 50,000 people and is thus the political, economic and transport hub of the islands. Most of these live in central Ishigaki, known for lack of a better name in Japanese as shigaichi (市街地 "city streets"), chūshin (中心 "center") or just machi (町 "town"). The town's focal point is the rather sad 730 Monument (730交差点), where main roads Sanbashi-dōri (桟橋通り), running eastwards from the ferry terminal, and Shiyakusho-dōri (市役所通り), running north-south, meet. Other population centers on Ishigaki are Kabira (川平), by the bay of the same name on the northwest coast, and Shiraho (白保), at the southeast corner.
Azuma Bus operates services throughout the island radiating from the bus terminal on Sanbashi-dōri, just across the street from the port. The most useful services connect to the airport (¥520) and Kabira (¥700). The best deal for transport on the island is the Michikusa Free Pass (みちくさフリーパス). It's not quite free, but ¥2,000 gets you unlimited trips around the island for 5 days.
Ishigaki is a little low on must-see attractions and somewhat tamer in terms of scenery than Iriomote. Most visitors hit the beaches of the northern coast and stay there. 1 730 Monument (730記念碑 Nana-san-maru kinenhi). This black rock mounted on a concrete plinth is not much to look at, but given its central location in downtown Ishigaki next to the port and the beginning of Route 390, the mysterious number warrants an explanation: it commemorates July 30, 1978, the day when Okinawa switched from driving on the right (like the US) to the left (like the rest of Japan). The 730COURT shopping mall is also nearby. (updated Sep 2021) 2 Yoko Gushiken Bronze Statue (具志堅用高モニュメント).
The transparent waters around the island are full of coral reefs, making scuba diving the number one activity on Ishigaki. In particular, Manta Scramble (マンタスクランブル), just off the island's north coast, is a legendary spot for manta ray spotting where groups of manta rays are almost guaranteed during Autumn. There are a large number of dive operators and rates are more or less standardized at around ¥12,000 for two boat dives (not including gear rental). Umicoza (海講座), Kabira, ☏ +81 980-88-2434. Friendly dive shop that also caters to English-speaking divers. Free transfers from anywhere on the island, Visa, MC, Amex accepted. Two dives ¥12,600, full gear rental ¥5250.
There are plenty of eating options in central Ishigaki, although many of the fancier places are open only for dinner. The stretch of Sanbashi-dori between the piers and the bus terminal has a good selection of reasonably priced Okinawan places, most of which offer affordable set lunches. 1 Beach (ビーチ), Okawa 209 (inside Euglena Mall). Daily 11:30-22:00. This friendly stucco-walled beach café trapped in a mall offers the Okinawan speciality taco rice in both "standard" (Mexican-ish) and "original" (Asian chicken) versions for ¥800 with tea/coffee or ¥1000 with a draught Orion beer. 2 Māsan-dō (まーさん道), 3 Misakicho, Shiyakusho-dōri, ☏ +81-980-83-4050. Daily 11:00-21:30.
Ishigaki has a surprisingly vibrant nightlife, mostly centered around izakayas offering the ubiquitous local firewater awamori. Also be sure to sample the local Ishigakijima Beer (石垣島地ビール) microbrew, now available in "marine" (lager), "kuro" (dark) and three other versions. Misakichō Center-Dōri (美崎町センター通り) and nearby streets, just north and west of the 730 Crossing, have a range of izakayas, karaoke lounges and nightclubs of varying degrees of respectability. Outside the city, however, there is little to no nightlife of any kind and you'll be hard pressed to find even a restaurant open after 18:00. 1 Papa-ya (ぱぱ屋).
Guide content from Wikivoyage contributors (CC BY-SA) — abridged; the full article has much more.
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In Jul, Ishigaki typically sees ~30°C daytime highs and 29 rainy days.
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