Izmir travel guide

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Photo: Parastoo Maleki / Unsplash

İzmir is a port on the Central Aegean coast of Turkey, known in antiquity as Smyrna. It's the country's third-largest city, with a population of 3.12 million in 2024.

Izmir in pictures

Photos: Wikimedia Commons contributors.

Practical guide

Understand

There are lots of little coves and harbours along Turkey's Aegean coast, but ancient Smyrna stood at the head of a broad inlet sheltered from winter storms, with a fertile hinterland and good inland trade routes. It suffered earthquakes and warfare, but didn't silt up and could accommodate large vessels. Thus it outgrew other ports and is now the modern bustling city of Izmir. This Smyrna was 5 km north of the present centre, in what is now the suburb of Bayraklı, and founded about 3000 BC by the Trojans. In folklore it was the birthplace of Homer, the 8th century BC author of the Odyssey, which describes a war between Greeks and Trojans 500 years earlier.

Get around

You can explore Izmir's inner city by walking. ESHOT is the city transport combine. Its bus routes span this region, all the way for instance to Bergama. İzmirim Kart is the contactless smart card used for all modes of public transport, available from multiple locations including the airport, ferry piers, and railway and metro stations. Each use is valid for 90 min, including one interchange on tram, train and metro but not buses. In 2024 a city centre bus journey costs 8.78 TL then a first transfer is 3.50 TL. On trains it initially charges the fare for the maximum possible distance but refunds when you swipe out.

See

1 Konak Square is the city's main square and gives its name to the central district. Konak means a mansion, and the provincial governor's mansion stood here. The clocktower (Saat Kulesi), erected in 1901, was one of dozens across the country marking 25 years of the reign of Abdul Hamid II (1842-1918). Neither clocktower nor Hamid fared well in later years, but at least the clocktower has been repeatedly restored, while the Ottoman Empire decayed into "the sick man of Europe".

Do

"I know the blasphemy of them that say they are Jews, and are not, but are the synagogue of Satan." - Smryna was one of the Seven Churches of Asia, and in Revelation 2, St John of Patmos flays them all for back-sliding and laxity. Kordon is what everyone calls the waterfront promenade of Atatürk Cd. It's lined by tall apartments and palm trees on one side and the Aegean on the other, with a broad strip of lawn and a cobbled street between, where you can have a 19th-century fayton (horse-drawn carriage) ride. Beaches: not downtown, which has a pleasant waterfront but not a beach. You need to get 20+ km west to the suburb of Güzelbahçe, and the coast improves further west towards Çeşme.

Eat

Local specialties: Fish, typically grilled sea bass. Kumru is a warm sandwich, made with a special bread with sesame seeds, Turkish sausage, grilled cheese and tomatoes; vegetarian versions are available. Find it at street stalls, best early in the day still warm from the bakery. One is a snack, two are a filling meal. Tulum Peyniri is a cheese made in the Izmir region. Boyoz, another local pastry but much oilier than kumru, to eat with a cup of tea for breakfast. The alleys off Talatpaşa Blv east of the Atatürk Museum are lined with budget eating places. 1 Sultan Yemek Evi, 1441st Sk 9/B, ☏ +90 232 422 2530. M-Sa 08:00-18:00. Reliable budget eatery.

Drink

Kordon, Alsancak's waterfront, is an attractive place in nice weather. 1448th Sk in Alsancak has end-to-end bars and pubs, with outdoor seating. Nightlife is found on Kıbrıs Şehitleri Cd and Gazi Kadinlar Cd, especially at weekends.

Stay safe

Usual care of valuables, and beware traffic. There's a police post on Konak Pier and the HQ - for something serious like a missing passport - is on 1365th Sk near Basmane Station. There's no longer a separate "tourism police".

Guide content from Wikivoyage contributors (CC BY-SA) — abridged; the full article has much more.

Getting there

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Things to do in Izmir

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Best time to visit Izmir — climate

Jan: ~15°C daytime, 13 rainy days 15° JanFeb: ~11°C daytime, 6 rainy days 11° FebMar: ~20°C daytime, 3 rainy days 20° MarApr: ~21°C daytime, 9 rainy days 21° AprMay: ~28°C daytime, 6 rainy days 28° MayJun: ~36°C daytime, 0 rainy days 36° JunJul: ~38°C daytime, 0 rainy days 38° JulAug: ~36°C daytime, 0 rainy days 36° AugSep: ~32°C daytime, 1 rainy days 32° SepOct: ~23°C daytime, 11 rainy days 23° OctNov: ~21°C daytime, 4 rainy days 21° NovDec: ~15°C daytime, 7 rainy days 15° Dec

Weather in Izmir

Wed 🌤️ 39° 24° 💧0%
Thu 🌤️ 35° 26° 💧0%
Fri ☁️ 33° 22° 💧14%
Sat 🌧️ 27° 21° 💧52%
Sun 🌤️ 32° 19° 💧0%
Mon 🌤️ 36° 22° 💧0%
Tue 🌤️ 35° 24° 💧0%

In Jul, Izmir typically sees ~38°C daytime highs and 0 rainy days.

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