Kars is a city in Eastern Anatolia with a population of 91,500 in 2022. The main reason to visit is the Armenian ruined city of Ani, and Kars town itself has several attractions.
Kars is in the far northeast of Turkey, near the borders with Georgia and Armenia. It's been battled over repeatedly down the centuries but what marks its landscape now are the conflicts with Russia and with the Armenians. Russia muscled in on Ottoman territory since the time of Catherine the Great, and Western powers tried to check this by supporting Turkey, notably during the Crimea War. They had limited success and much of the Caucasus came under Tsarist control. Russia captured Kars in 1878 and held it until 1920, building a modern city on a grid pattern.
Most sights of interest are in a small walkable area around the castle and Kümbet mosque. The tourist bus to Ani leaves from Faik Bey Cd at the intersection of Gazi Ahmet Muhtar Paşa Cd. It sets off around 08:30 to 09:00, takes an hour, and sets off back at 12:45.
Downtown was laid out on a grid during the Russian occupation of 1878-1918. Here and there are black basalt townhouses in what's called "Baltic style", especially to the southwest, but mostly it's late 20th century tat. 1 Kars Castle. Daily 09:00-17:00. The castle or citadel was built from 1153: it's been destroyed on several occasions but restored. Approach up the cobbled track from the south. Within is a small mosque, and the reconstructed tomb of Kahraman Celal Baba, a mythical 13th century hero against the Mongol invasion. There's not much else within but you get a view of the city. The mausoleum at the foot of castle hill by Taş Köprü is for two other fallen defenders. Free.
Hamams are traditional Turkish baths. The historic bathhouses have closed down. Anadolu Hamamı is modern and still in use on Karadağ Cd downtown. Football: Karsspor play soccer down in the amateur leagues at Şehir Stadium, 100 m south of Grand Ani Hotel.
Kars cheese was introduced by the Swiss and is called gravyer, for Gruyère, but more resembles Emmental. Kaz is goose, usually in a stew. Eating places are dotted along Atatürk Cd downtown.
Guide content from Wikivoyage contributors (CC BY-SA) — abridged; the full article has much more.
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In Sep, Kars typically sees ~21°C daytime highs and 3 rainy days.
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