Kaunas at the edge of Sūduva region is the second-largest city in Lithuania, with a population of 304,000 in 2024. The main reason to visit is its Old Town, connected to the 19th-century New Town along Laisvės alėja. It was the country's capital between the two world wars.
Photos: Wikimedia Commons contributors.
The city grew up in an obvious strategic position, at the confluence of the country's two main rivers. There's been settlement here for at least 2500 years but what we now call the Old Town dates from the 14th century when the castle was built. Kaunas prospered as part of the Hanseatic League into the 16th century. Medieval Lithuania had united with Poland to control a huge swathe of Europe, right down to the Black Sea, but Sweden and Russia grew and fought for regional control, and in the 17th and 18th centuries they attacked and wrecked Kaunas several times.
Some 43 bus and 15 trolleybus routes criss-cross the city, running from 05:00 to 23:00. Use e-tickets or buy a ticket on board (with coins or debit/credit card). A single e-ticket is €0/70 - always validate it when boarding. On board tickets cost €1.50. E-tickets can be used with a Žiogas card (available at newsstands or certain supermarkets in Kaunas) or with the Žiogas app, available on Android and iOS. Žiogas works by pre-loading the card or the app with money.
City sightseeing tours are available, see Kaunas IN offerings. They also tout a Kaunastic card but this is simply a gift card for retail outlets, it doesn't grant entry to the sights or rides on the buses. 1 Kaunas Castle, Pilies g 17, ☏ +370 687 55263. Sep-May: Tu-F 10:00-18:00, Sa 10:00-17:00; Jun-Aug: Tu-Sa 10:00-18:00, Su 10:00-16:00. The first castle was built mid-14th century at the confluence of the rivers Nemunas and Neris. It was destroyed in 1401 and the new castle was constructed in the 15th and 16th centuries. It is the oldest building in Kaunas. Today the round tower houses an art gallery, and the castle hosts occasional festivals. The tip of the confluence is Santakos Park.
1 State Musical Theatre, Laisvės al 91, ☏ +370 37 200933. Variety of classical opera and operettas in their original language. (updated Oct 2024) Kaunas Chamber Theatre, Kestucio g 74A (east side of Musical Theatre), ☏ +370 612 62226. Small theatre founded in 1976. (updated Oct 2024) 2 National Kaunas Drama Theatre, Laisvės al 71, ☏ +370 37 224064. Mix of classical and contemporary drama. (updated Oct 2024) 3 Aura Dance Theatre, M Dauksos g 30A, ☏ +370 37 202062. Founded in 1980, they host a contemporary dance festival in autumn. (updated Oct 2024) 4 State Philharmonic Orchestra, Ožeškienės g 12, ☏ +370 37 200478. The concert hall is within the former Parliament House.
Lithuanian food isn't easy to find elsewhere in the world so this is a good place to try it. Plenty of other cuisines are available. Hesburger is a Finnish burger chain, with outlets at Vilniaus g 43, Laisvės al 48 (within Monk's Bunk), Karaliaus Mindaugo pr 49 (within Akropolis Centre), Savanorių pr 222B, Mega shopping mall, Pramones al 6A, and more further out. They're mostly open M-Sa 10:00-22:00, Su 12:00-22:00. Sushi Express is a Japanese fast food chain with half-a-dozen outlets. The most central is within Akropolis shopping centre near the bus station, open daily 10:00-21:00. 1 Radharanė, Laisvės al 40. Daily 11:00-21:00. Vegetarian Indian food at very reasonable prices.
Beer is Alus in Lithuanian, think "ales". Popular local brands are Utenos, Švyturys and Horn. 1 rePUBlic No 1, Laisvės al 57, ☏ +370 614 43444, info@pub.lt. M-Th 16:00-01:00, F Sa 16:00-04:00, Su 14:00-01:00. Lively sports bar with over 20 varieties of beer on tap and more than 40 varieties of bottled beer, plus 30 whiskeys and various Lithuanian liquors. (updated Oct 2024) Džem'pub, Laisvės al 59 (5th floor, next to rePUBlic No 1), ☏ +370 657 45003. Tu-Sa 18:00-03:00. Bustling pub with live music. (updated Oct 2024) 2 Kauno Alus Brewery, Savanoriu al 7, ☏ +370 37 201838. M-F 09:00-18:00. Tours available. They also have a taproom at Laisvės al 21 in front of St Michael Cathedral.
Usual precautions about traffic, safeguarding valuables and avoiding damnfool drunks. The station area can be rough at night.
Guide content from Wikivoyage contributors (CC BY-SA) — abridged; the full article has much more.
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In Jul, Kaunas typically sees ~24°C daytime highs and 17 rainy days.
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