Phnom Penh, at the confluence of the Mekong and the Tonle Sap Rivers, is the capital of Cambodia and its largest city. Having been liberated in the late 1970s from Khmer Rouge oppression, the city has exploded in activity in the 21st century and now a thumping little metropolis, small at heart but big in vibe. While not yet a rival to Bangkok, it's getting there; get it while it lasts, before it becomes Bangkok.
Photos: Wikimedia Commons contributors.
Phnom Penh was largely depopulated during the Khmer Rouge regime, with most of its population deported to camps in the countryside. It was liberated from the Khmer Rouge by the Vietnamese in 1979, and has long remained a bit rough. Things have improved; however, some roads remain shabby, traffic is persistently chaotic, and electricity is occasionally strained (never mind your precious internet). But on the whole, the city is reasonably modern. The city has gained high-rise buildings and traffic lights. The beauty that made it a "Paris of the East" before 1970 is unfortunately well hidden, though a few French colonial buildings remain.
Phnom Penh's main streets are in good shape. Some smaller streets and footpaths are rutted and potholed, clogged with garbage, stagnant water, parked motorbikes, sleeping people, and building materials. Street signage is clear and Phnom Penh is logically laid out (see orientation) and navigating is not too difficult. Motorbikes (but not self-drive cars) can be rented for US$5–6 per day, sometimes through guesthouses. Traffic is chaotic and dangerous, even by SE Asian standards. Wear a helmet and drive carefully. Two rental shops are on Monivong Blvd: Lucky Bike Rental and New Bike Rental. Accept that paying US$1–2 police "fines" is part of driving.
France's Cambodian colony was acquired late and largely neglected. Historic colonial architecture was limited to start with and has largely decayed. The Grand Post Office Building, Central Market and Raffles Le Royal Hotel are notable exceptions. Generally, any building in good condition, old or new, will be behind a big wall and security guards. There are also sites related to the brutal Khmer Rouge regime, three of which were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2025: the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum housed in the former prison S-21, the Killing Fields at Choeung Ek, as well as the former M-13 prison west of Phnom Penh. 1 The National Museum of Cambodia, St 13, Sangkat Chey Chumneas, …
1 Mekong River Cruises. Boats leave every evening for a river cruise. Many provide snacks or dinners at sunset. Be sure to visit Mekong Island to see rural life. US$8. Meta House, 6, St 264, opposite Wat Botum. A German-Cambodian cultural center that's an outgrowth of Germany's Goethe Institute. Art gallery, bar, mini-cinema and production house. Shows free, high quality foreign and Cambodian films Tu-Su nights at 19:00 in the bar-lounge in the front yard. Institute Francais. Film screenings with few English subtitles, and more. Hash House Harriers. A running club that meets every Sunday at 14:15 at the railway station. US$5. 2 NagaWorld Casino. The only casino in Phnom Penh.
Phnom Penh offers some interesting culinary treats not found elsewhere in the country. These include French-influenced dining and Thai, Vietnamese, and Indonesian dishes. Pizzas, banana pancakes, and fried rice are always easy to find. The recent influx of Chinese capital in Phnom Penh has brought with it an influx of Chinese cuisine as well, including a significant number of regionally focused restaurants.
The coffee scene in Phnom Penh has exploded in the last few years with several global chains present all around. But there are also numerous small and independent coffee shops to be found. 1 Cousin's Burger Coffee, 16, St 200. 11:00-21:00. French-run, French-style. Coffees as well as burger, fries and soft drinks. (updated Dec 2023) 2 Luxuries Cafe, ☏ +855 96 777 7552 (mobile). 06:00-23:00. True to its name this is a very comfortable and luxurious cafe. Has both photo drinks and food menus. Prices surprisingly not expensive. (updated Dec 2023) 3 Chhma Catfe, 3, St 178. 08:30-20:30.
As in any big city, be wary when walking alone at night. Daytime phone and bag snatching is not uncommon. Women are the main targets. When riding in a tuk-tuk keep your phone and bag toward the middle of the tuk-tuk to protect against snatching. When on a motorbike taxi, keep your belongings between you and the driver or in front of the driver. Do not carry or wear your bag on your back! Scammers and con men sometimes work the tourist areas such as the riverfront, Hun Sen Park and the Sorya Mall. One example: a group of men start a conversation, make friends, claim to have a relative who is soon moving to your country of origin, and invite you to dinner at their house.
Guide content from Wikivoyage contributors (CC BY-SA) — abridged; the full article has much more.
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In Jul, Phnom Penh typically sees ~32°C daytime highs and 21 rainy days.
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