Recife, the capital of Pernambuco, is one of the largest and most important cities on the northeastern coast of Brazil. This lively state capital, founded by Dutch colonizers, is brimming with a vibrant culture, an interesting old town (which includes the oldest synagogue in the Americas) and some nice beaches.
Recife (Portuguese: "The Reef") is on the Atlantic coast, at the estuary of the Capibaribe, Beberibe and Jordão Rivers, close to the easternmost point of the Americas. The city, which is only two meters above sea level (some parts are below), is distributed across rivers, canals and islands. Due to the prevalence of waterways in its geography, Recife is known as Veneza Brasileira (Brazilian Venice). Its 1.7 million inhabitants (2020), 3.7 million in the Grande Recife, are called recifenses. Services are the base of the economy. Despite the high incidence of poverty, the municipal Human Development Index (HDI) in 2000 (0.810) was above Brazil's national average (0.800).
Uber operates in Recife with available pickups at the airport. Look for registered taxi companies which charge standard rates. Ask for a car with air conditioning (especially in the summer). Coopetáxi, ☏ +55 81 3224-8441. Disk Táxi, ☏ +55 81 3224-5410. Ligue Táxi, ☏ +55 81 3228-6830. RádioTáxi Recife, ☏ +55 81 3222-6580. Recife Táxi, ☏ +55 81 3424-3020. TeleTáxi, ☏ +55 81 2121-4242. Buses are the most useful form of mass transportation.
Recife is known for its amazing beaches. 2 Boa Viagem Beach (Praia de Boa Viagem). Probably one of the world's best urban beaches, with pristine white sands. With 8 km of hotels and restaurants, it is the longest urbanized stretch of beach in Brazil. If you want a tan, you came to the right place. The beach road has a wide walkway attached and this is dotted with huts selling food and drink. Try the traditional "água de coco" (coconut water). The beach is full of vendors selling food and drink. There are also vendors selling t-shirts, hats, suncream, sunglasses. These guys can get a bit insistent. Simply smile and one word will have them on their way: não (pronounced "nawwn").
Maracatu Rehearsals (ensaios de maracatu). Some of the most traditional maracatu (Pernambuco-style carnaval dances and parades) groups include: Leão Coroado (since 1863), Estrela Brilhante do Recife (since 1909), Porto Rico (since 1916), Cambinda Estrela do Recife (since 1935), and Elefante, among others. Catamaran Rides in the Capibaribe River (Catamaran Tours, Cais das Cinco Pontas), Avenida Sul, São José (Centro), ☏ +55 81 3424-2845, +55 81 9973-4077. 16:00 and 20:00 daily. Tour lasts 1 hour and 15 minutes. Agenda de Eventos do Recife. Daily, 16:00 and 20:00. Tour last 1 hour and 15 minutes. Scuba diving.
Pernambuco has a multicultural gastronomy with African and indigenous influences, among others. The national dish Feijoada (a stew of beans, pork and beef, served with rice and Farofa) is not very popular in Recife. On the other hand some ingredients which are widely used in Recife are hardly found in the South of Brazil, as manioc flour (which is the main ingredient of tapioca), cuscuz (corn flour), pumpkin, jerked beef, goat or lamb. Seafood is exotic and delicious.
There are many many bars in Recife, most, if not all, serving food as well as drinks. The prices are cheap. At the less classy end of the market, there are some great bars. They don't have great signage to tell you that it's a bar. Basically, if you see some plastic garden furniture in the street, you are looking at a bar. These are usually the most fun places with the loudest people and the best vibe. Be careful of the ice in places like this as it might not be made from bottled water.
Recife's reputation for safety is not one of the best. Robberies on streets and buses are fairly common. Do not be alarmed — odds are you will have a fabulous time here — but be aware of your surroundings and take the usual big city precautions. While entering or leaving Olinda at dusk or dawn, you have an elevated risk of being ambushed. Taxis are recommended. Beware of the unlicensed guides.
Guide content from Wikivoyage contributors (CC BY-SA) — abridged; the full article has much more.
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In Sep, Recife typically sees ~27°C daytime highs and 25 rainy days.
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