Samarkand is the city that is the bejewelled crown of the Silk Road, a rhapsody of ornate Islamic architecture with turquoise domes and soaring tiled minarets. It's one of the twin pillars of the Samarkand through Bukhara region of Uzbekistan, and a must-see destination. With a population of 585,000 in 2024 and as many again in the broader metropolis, much of Samarkand is blandly modern, but its extensive Old Town has been well-preserved, and inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Photos: Wikimedia Commons contributors.
The name "Samarkand" is said to derive from words meaning "stone fort", but there are about as many other names and claimed origins as there were varieties of goods traded in its bazaars - some of them of dubious value, far from being genuine silk. Stone fort? - it was sun-baked mud, adobe as it's called in the west, and whoever reckoned it would repel invaders was sold a dud. This area has been inhabited for millennia, but the first entity that could be called a town was about the 8th century BC. It grew into a citadel protected by stout mud-brick walls on the site now known as Afrosiab (though that name is relatively modern).
The main sights of Samarkand are in two nearby clusters: Gur-i Amir and the Registan, and Bibi-Khanym Mosque, Shah-i Zinda, and Afrosiyab. It's simplest to walk between all of these. Take a bus or taxi for sights further out, such as Ulugh-Beg Observatory 2 km beyond Afrosiyab. There are two tram lines from the railway station. T2 is the one you want, heading southeast to Siyob Bazaar about 1 km north of the Registan. T1 goes south to Sartepa and is always about 5 km west of the main sights. Yellow taxis can be taken all over. 5000 som is a standard fare pretty much anywhere in the city, add 2000 for the outskirts.
1 Registan, ☏ +998 66 235 7052. Daily Apr-Oct 08:00-23:00, Nov-Mar 09:00-20:00. This magnificent square is the defining image, not only of Samarkand but of the whole Silk Road. It became the city's main square from the 15th century, Timurid times, after Afrosiab was abandoned. It's lined by three madrasahs, all with grand portals and richly adorned. Ulugbek on the west side is the oldest madrasah, from 1417; its upper floor has been lost. Shirdor facing it on the east side was built from 1619; "Shir" means tiger, from the motif on its portal. Tilya-Kori on the north side was built from 1646 and was also the grand mosque; the name means "gilded".
1 Eternal City and Eternity Square, Route M39. Opened in 2022, a very beautiful tourist complex near a large Samarkand Rowing Canal, about 10 km east of the historical center of Samarkand. The Eternal City is an island with buildings built in an authentic style, including shopping pavilions and restaurants. The Eternity Square features a stage in the shape of Ulughbek's Observatory, as well as fast food outlets and amusement rides. Visitors can also enjoy boating and gondola rides on the canal. Additionally, there is a Quran Museum located within the complex. the place is really very instagrammable.
Plov is the staple dish, rice stewed with meat and veg. The local version uses more oil and yellow carrots than elsewhere, sometimes enlivened by an otherwise useless horse. Samarkand Non, the local bread, is almost a bowl or cake. 1 Historic, Suzangaron, ☏ +998 98 573 2111. Daily 08:00-22:00. Great local restaurant in a side street only a few meters from the Registan. They offer good shashlik and other Uzbek food, plus beer and vodka. (updated Nov 2024) 2 Cafe Magistr, 30/45 Buston Saroy, ☏ +998 66 250 1551. M-Sa 08:00-23:00, Su 12:00-23:00. Slick central place with veggie choices, staff speak good English.
Bars in city centre include Sam Craft outside Registan, Blues Bar on Amir Temur St, Green Bear at Bazarova 11, and Botchka nearby.
Guide content from Wikivoyage contributors (CC BY-SA) — abridged; the full article has much more.
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In Jul, Samarkand typically sees ~36°C daytime highs and 0 rainy days.
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