Sukhum (Abkhaz: Аҟəа /Aqwa/, Georgian: სოხუმი, Russian: Сухум) is the capital and principal city of Abkhazia. It has for the better part of the last century been famous throughout the former Soviet Union as a prominent subtropical beach resort, complete with palm trees, botanical gardens, and citrus plantations, backed by the high alpine peaks of the Greater Caucasus Mountains. You can easily see Sukhum's urban sights in one afternoon; spend the rest of your time on the beach or doing day trips to northern Abkhazia.
First settlement was founded here in the second and early first millennia BC by local Colchian tribes. Later in the mid-6th century BC it was replaced by the Milesian Greek colony of Dioscurias. It remained one of the Roman (and later Byzantine) strongholds in Caucasus up until being sacked by the Arabs in 736. Afterwards restored and flourished during the reigns of Abkhazian and Georgian kingdoms in the 12th–13th centuries. However, it fell to the Turks about 1570, when they built new fort here. In the late 18th century it became a capital of independent Abkhaz kingdom. Short after that in 1810 Abkhaz kingdom signed a treaty with Russian Empire to become part of it.
Most can easily be done on foot; bookshops sell quite decent maps. Frequent marshrutkas and lesser frequent trolleybuses ply the roads. To get to the bus/train station ("voksal") take any marshrutka/trolleybus going to the central market and then board trolleybus #1 or #3. There are three trolleybus routes: №1 Central Market ("rynok") - Noviy rayon. Via train station. №2 Central Market ("rynok") - Kashtak. Via city center and then further southward along city coast line. №3 Central Market ("rynok") - Zheleznodorozhniy Posyolok. Via train station
Although some of the major sights of the city were destroyed by the war, Sukhum's principal attraction remained intact: an almost tropical climate with beaches, mountains, lakes, palm trees and of course the warm welcoming of locals, always mixed with a curiosity towards westerners. Russian tourists invade the seaside during the summer; the influx of new money permitted the reconstruction of the main sites, and progress, albeit slow, is visible everywhere. 1 Promenade. Seaside promenade stretches some 4 km long westwards from the government buildings. Summertime it is always full of life: locals as well as Russian tourists stroll along, chat, eat ice cream, drink beer and enjoy the sun.
Swim at the moderately well maintained pebble beach. 1 Abkhazian Drama Theater. Gives quite frequent performances. In Russian, no subtitles. 300-500 руб. 2 Abkhazian State Philarmonic. 3 Botanical garden (three corners away northwards from hotel Ritsa). This nicely refurbished park is incredibly popular with tourists who are keen to take pictures with the odd-shaped trees. Botanical plant names given for many species. Garden was established in 1840, which makes it one of the oldest botanical gardens in the Caucasus. Adult 200 руб, child 50 руб.
There is a fair share of restaurants in Sukhum, which cater mostly Russian or Caucasian style dining. Many of them are at the coast next to Hotel Ritsa; they are designed to cater Russian tourists, and while they are not exactly cheap on local standards (a diner with two courses and wine can cost up to €15-20), most of them are decent and reliable. Walk along the seaside and choose what you like most (and where you find a free table, which can be tricky during the summer). Some new openings are visible around the town, especially around the tourist-invaded botanical garden. 1 Sushi Restaurant and Bar "Kibo". Serve Japanese cuisine. 2 Restaurant Amra.
Plenty of places along the coast. Walk along the coastline and take your pick. The places on the pier are great for a sundowner. 1 Beer-bar "Apsalas", ave. Aiaaira 179. Serve draught beer 'Pitsunda'. 2 Bar "Agara" (Aҧра), Victory ave.. Very average bar. 3 Nightclub "Aytar". Summer only. Restaurant on the beach that has a beautiful view, nice atmosphere and a great food. It turns into club in the evening (plays mostly club music).
Guide content from Wikivoyage contributors (CC BY-SA) — abridged; the full article has much more.
In Jul, Sukhumi typically sees ~28°C daytime highs and 8 rainy days.
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