Toulouse is the chief city of Haute-Garonne in the Occitanie region of France. It stands north of the Pyrenees on the River Garonne, halfway between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. Toulouse is the fourth largest city in France (after Paris, Marseille and Lyon), with a metropolitan population of almost 1½ million in 2020. It's known for its rugby, its aerospace industry and for violets, which are used to make bonbons and liqueurs.
Photos: Wikimedia Commons contributors.
The city was a Roman settlement, "Tolosa", and the smaller inner streets still follow the ancient layout. After Rome fell, it became capital of a Visigoth kingdom, but the region was roiled by secular, dynastic and religious wars, such as those against the Cathar heretics. The Dominican Order was founded in the city in 1216 to win back the Cathars to orthodoxy by peaceful preaching, but when that didn't work the Pope launched a crusade and massacre. Toulouse and its realm thereby lost independence and in 1271 were annexed to the Kingdom of France. In the fourteenth century, Toulouse was devastated by pogroms, the Black Death, famine, and war.
Toulouse is a big city, but the historical centre is compact, between the Garonne River and Metro B Line. You can walk to most attractions. Bus, tram, metro lines and cable car are operated by Tisseo. Tram T1 starts downtown at Palais de Justice, crosses the river west to Arènes interchange, then runs north to Beauzelle and the MEETT – get off in Blagnac for the airport bus. (Tram 2 is axed.) Metro line A runs southwest to northeast, from the University through Arènes and the railway station. Metro line B runs north–south, passing the main railway station and Palais de Justice. There is a suburban train west to Colomiers and Arènes which can be taken with a Tisseo fare.
The old centre of Toulouse is east of the River Garonne: it's compact and most places of interest can easily be visited on foot. It's bounded to the east and north by Bvd Lazare Carnot / Bvd de Strasbourg, and to the south by the cathedral, Rue Metz and Pont Neuf. 1 Basilique Saint-Sernin, 7 Place St-Sernin (Metro: Jean-Jaurès), ☏ +33 5 6121 8045. A red-brick church from the 11–12th century, it may well be the largest Romanesque construction in the world, partly because it was an important stopover on the pilgrimage to Santiago. Huge as it is, it's the only remnant of the former Abbey of Saint-Sernin.
What's on? For local events read La Dépêche du Midi or Intramuros, or watch TV Sud or the local section of France 3. Take a walk along the river quays. Théâtre du Capitole hosts the opera house and orchestra, Box Office +33 5 6163 1313. 1 Canal du Midi is the eastern and more interesting section of the "Canal des Deux Mers", and it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It starts from the River Garonne to the northwest, circling city centre so its first few km are walkable. But the best sections are further out, as it climbs the hillside then descends through Carcassonne and Beziers towards Étang de Thau on the Med.
Local specialities are: Duck, for instance canard confit (roast duck leg) or canard foie gras (duck liver pate). Cassoulet is a stew made with white beans, meat (such as Toulouse sausage), and pork skin. Violets used to make candy. The areas around Place du Capitole, Bvd de Strasbourg and Place St Georges are lined with cafes and restaurants. 1 L'oasis, 41 Rue Pargaminières. 11:00–02:00 (–03:00 Sat, 11:30–01:00 Sun). This Turkish place is quite popular with students, and it's not hard to see why when they serve a generous portion of good food at low prices. €7–10. (updated Nov 2023) 2 Les Halles Victor Hugo, Place Victor Hugo. Tu–Su 08:00–13:30. The ground floor is a big food market.
The George and Dragon is a lively British-style pub with TV sport. It's at 1 Place de Peyrou 150 m west of the Basilica. Hopscotch, 3 Rue Baour Lormian (block south of Capitole). Tu–Sa 16:00–02:00, Su M 16:00–00:00. Scots-themed pub with food, micro-brewery and huge selection of whisky. (updated Aug 2023) The Classroom is an Irish pub at 42 Rue Pargaminières 300 m west of Capitole. 1 La Beer Fabrique, 12 Ave Etienne Billières, ☏ +33 6 9535 1917. Brewery organising classes where you brew your own. (updated Aug 2023) 2 Le Biergarten, 60 Grand Rue Saint-Michel (Metro: Saint-Michel Marcel Langer), ☏ +33 5 6173 8377. Tu–Sa 17:00–02:00, Su M 17:00–00:00.
Guide content from Wikivoyage contributors (CC BY-SA) — abridged; the full article has much more.
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In Jul, Toulouse typically sees ~29°C daytime highs and 10 rainy days.
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