Trabzon is the largest city in the Eastern Karadeniz region of Turkey, with a population of 323,000 in 2023, and another 500,000 in the outlying towns. It was once known as Trebizond, ruling an independent "Empire" around the eastern Black Sea. It's now a lively place with good visitor facilities and attractions.
Photos: Wikimedia Commons contributors.
Trabzon was founded around 756 BC by Hellenistic settlers from Sinop further west. They found natural shelter for a port and a defensible tableland between two ravines, so they called it Trapezous meaning "table", and made it their citadel. The site’s other big advantage was a valley leading through the mountains to Anatolia, whereas other ports such as Sinop were pinned against the slopes. The city therefore grew into a cosmopolitan trading centre, predominantly Greek-speaking. The Romans conquered the area in 68 BC, building a new harbour and roads, and used it as a springboard for attacks on Persia.
"Take my camel, dear", said my Aunt Dot, as she climbed down from this animal on her return from High Mass. - The Towers of Trebizond (1956) by Rose Macaulay follows a group of conflicted dingbats on a journey from Istanbul Walking gets you between the main sights of Meydan to the east, the central bazaar quarter, and the historic walled city southwest. Distances are less than 1 km but there's a lot of up and down, as the old city was built on a ridge between the ravines of Zagnos west and Kuzgun east. A swarm of dolmuşes ply through the city and out to the province's other towns. 3 Dolmuş gar is the place for out-of-town services.
Pace yourself if you aim to tick off the city's scores of religious sites. People in classical times had deities for everything under the sun, plus the sun itself. When the Romans became Christian in the 4th century the pagan temples were replaced by churches, of which the oldest survivor is St Anne's. They were mostly converted to mosques after the Ottoman conquest of 1461, but the city retained Greek and Armenian congregations until the 20th century. There was also a spate of mosque-building from the 19th century as the population grew. This includes the İskender Paşa district named for its main mosque, and stretching east to the harbour.
Football 1 Trabzonspor (Papara Park), Şenol Güneş Stadium (bus to Akyazı). They play soccer in Süper Lig, the top tier. They're Turkey's most successful team outside Istanbul and often qualify for European tournaments. As well as local support, they have big diaspora followings in Istanbul and Baku. The stadium (capacity 40,800) is named for Şenol Güneş (b 1952), former goalkeeper and manager of Trabzon and the Turkish national team. Trabzonspor women's team play at Mehmet Ali Yılmaz Stadium. (updated Jul 2025) 2 Yomra Climbing Gym (Yomra Tırmanış Duvarı), Hükümet Cd, Yomra, ☏ +90 462 344 0992. Sports complex with climbing and bouldering.
Black Sea cuisine is heavy on stews and soups of vegetables and beans. It also includes dairy dishes such as kuymak / muhlama, fresh milk with ayran, and various cheeses. Trabzon pide is a kind of pizza with cheese and eggs. Local köfte (meatballs) have a distinctive taste. Vakfikebir ekmegi is sourdough bread similar to Italian Pane Casareccio. It's baked in a stone oven and can weigh up to 7 kg. Cornbread is also common, as the climate suits maize but not wheat. Hamsi are locally-fished anchovies, a staple, typically fried and eaten whole. Hazelnuts: the Black Sea region grows 70% of the world's production.
Water from the tap is safe to drink but heavily chlorinated, you may prefer bottles. Kahve Durağı is a chain. The most central is within Grand Zorlu Hotel. Time's Coffee Restaurant is on the 7th floor of the Silk Road Business Center on Kahramanmaraş Cd, opposite Grand Zorlu Hotel, open daily 08:00-23:00. SineK is a cinema-themed cafe on Yavuz Selim Blv next to Royal Sinema, open daily 09:00-23:00. Edward's Coffee is next to Sinek, open M-Sa 08:00-00:00, Su 10:00-00:00. Ganita tea garden (next to Kalepark Fortress), ☏ +90 462 326 2396. Daily 08:00-23:00. Pleasant tea garden by the seafront and old fortress.
In the city beware traffic, safeguard valuables and avoid lowlife, same as anywhere else. Those rules also apply to remote areas, along with harsh weather, and the risk of slips and strains far from assistance. Dangerous animals in the mountains include bears.
Guide content from Wikivoyage contributors (CC BY-SA) — abridged; the full article has much more.
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In Jul, Trabzon typically sees ~27°C daytime highs and 15 rainy days.
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