Yamagata (山形) is the prefectural capital of Yamagata prefecture. Zao Onsen, the largest ski resort in Tohoku that doubles as a hot spring resort, is within city limits, but it's 40 minutes away bus and covered in a separate article.
Photos: Wikimedia Commons contributors.
Yamagata has been best known by outsiders for Mount Zao's hot springs and Yamadera for centuries. In fact, Matsuo Basho stopped by Yamadera on July 13, 1689 as part of his poetic journey, Narrow Road to the Deep North, and penned the following famed haiku poem: 閑さや 岩にしみ入 蟬の声 shizukasa ya iwa ni shimiiru semi no koe Silence, and seeping into the rocks — the cry of the cicada — Matsuo Bashō The meaning of this will be instantly apparent should you visit the temple (or most anywhere in Japan) during the late summer - judging from the date, it is considered Basho heard a quieter kind of cicada, niiniizemi (Platypleura kaempferi).
Most of the town is centered around the JR station in the middle of town. Yamagata has a bus route, taxis, and bicycles for rent. Most of the most popular tourist destinations have bus routes that run to various areas around town including the areas further out, such as Yamadera and Zao Onsen. On weekends and holidays during the open season, some of the Zao Onsen buses terminate at the Okama Crater. Yamako Bus (山交バス) timetables can be found here (English). For Yamadera, it may be more convenient to travel by train to Yamadera Station. The temple entrance is a 5-minute walk away from the station past many souvenir shops.
1 Yamagata Castle (山形城), ☏ +81 23-641-1212. 05:00-22:00. The original castle was constructed in 1357 by Kaneyori Mogami but the castle was greatly expanded by Yoshiaki Mogami nearly 200 years later. The castle contained a palace building and other structures protected by multiple walled sections with turrets surrounded by a moat. It was the largest castle in the Tohoku region, but it never had a donjon. Yoshiaki also built up the surrounding area as a respectable castle town, both expanding it and improving the existing infrastructure. He is sometimes called the "founder" of Yamagata City, even though people had been living there long before his lifetime.
1 Yamagata Traditional Kokeshikan (やまがた伝統こけし館 yamagata dentō kokeshikan), Nana Beans 5F. The Kokeshikan has displays of old kokeshi and explanations of the various types of kokeshi. Visitors can also try painting their own kokeshi dolls. ¥300 to paint your own kokeshi. Hanagasa Festival (花笠まつり). August 5-7. The Hanagasa Festival is Yamagata's most famous festival and the prefectural representative among the top festivals of the Tohoku Region. It began as a single dance in the Zao Summer Festival and branched out as its own distinct celebration in 1965. It is set apart from other summer dancing festivals by its use of flower hats (hanagasa) by all participants.
Yamagata is known for its ramen. The specific type said to originate here is hiyashi ramen which is characterized by its cold broth. As such, it's especially popular in the summertime, although you can eat it year-round. Yamadera is known for tama-kon, balls of konnyaku (a firmly chewy gelatin like substance made from ground konjak 'devil's tongue' roots) cooked in soy sauce and served on a stick. You can buy them at the base of Yamadera as it's said that eating them will give you the stamina to reach the temple atop the mountain. Be aware that the mustard they put on it is Japanese-style mustard, much hotter than Western varieties.
1 Bar Blumen (Bar ぶる～めん), ☏ +81 23-631-2876. 19:00-02:00. A whiskey and brandy bar. 2 50s Cocktail Bar Cool (50s cocktail's bar クール). Mon-Thu 19:00-03:00, Fri Sat 18:00-04:00, Sun 19:00-01:00. A bar that looks like a 1950s American diner. 3 Ride 4 Style, ☏ +81 23-687-0721. 19:00-03:00. A sports bar. 4 Hotnaru Yokocho (ほっとなる横丁), 2-6-2 Ryutsu Center, ☏ +81 23-666-7604. An enclave of traditional yatai foodstalls; an escape from the urban jungle located right in the middle of it. Each stall has its own unique menu but all of them work to use and feature local Yamagata products and produce. (updated Jun 2017)
Guide content from Wikivoyage contributors (CC BY-SA) — abridged; the full article has much more.
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In Oct, Yamagata typically sees ~19°C daytime highs and 13 rainy days.
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